First, select the proper hardware:
· Picture hook: best used for lightweight artwork and used in plaster or sheetrock walls. To minimize chipping of the wall finish, tape an "X" with masking tape on the wall over the spot to be nailed before hammering. Picture hooks are available in various sizes, make sure you find a stud by using a "studfinder" magnetic finder (it senses nailheads and indicates where existing studs are) or by tapped the wall slightly with your hammer. Many times you can hear a difference in sound when tapping over a stud (the sound will not be hollow sounding over a stud.) In the USA most interior residential walls are framed using studs 16 inches apart---if you can find one stud measure 16 inches to either side to find the next stud.
· Plastic anchor: best used for medium-size pieces of artwork in solid walls like cement or cement block. These anchors have two pieces - a plastic sleeve which is inserted into a hole drilled into the wall, followed by inserting a screw into the sleeve. You can buy a little kit which give you a masonry drill bit (usually about 1/4" bit) and several plastic inserts and screws. These can hold a fairly heavy artwork.
· Toggle bolt: used to hang heavy pieces of art in sheetrock or plaster walls. Once installed in the wall, the "wings" of a toggle bolt will open and provide more support for your art.
Second, determine the right level:
Eye level is the general rule of thumb when hanging art. However, eye level is different for everyone. Here's the simple formula used by most professionals:
· Measure up 60 inches from the floor.
· To this, add half the height of the framed picture.
· Subtract the height of the wire (the height of the triangle that the wire would form if the frame were actually hanging).
That's the ideal spot for your picture hanger - regardless of the height of the ceiling or your height.